Krk and the Battle of Cape Bejavac in 49 BC
The Croatian island of Krk surprised me in many ways. Its shape amused me, reminding me of a grinning, diving Gnathosaurus (Gnathosaurus subulatus) [1]. Its size astonished me as well, as it is identical down to two decimal points [2] with that of the island of Cres, located to the west and so vastly different in shape. Connected to the mainland by the nearly one-and-a-half-kilometer-long Krk Bridge—an impressive feat resting on two reinforced concrete arches and cutting through the narrow passage carved into the rocks of the tiny island of Sveti Marko—it also ensured that my journey into its captivating world began safely. While crossing the bridge, I had no idea that I was in an area where, in 49 BCE, the Battle of Cape Bejavac took place—at tiny peninsula of Krk that lies closest to the mainland. On either side of this land-and-sea clash stood the forces of ancient Rome’s power struggle: those of Gaius Julius Caesar and Gnaeus Pompey the Great. It seems that Croatia still remembers this event well, as I discovered in three distinct ways.
Plantation
The base for my explorations was a cozy hotel in Njivice, a charming village of just over a thousand residents enjoying the western shores of the island, where I had checked in two days earlier. On the third day, I ventured out to visit a unique attraction near the Krk Bridge—a plantation of immortelle (Helichrysum italicum), an ancient plant renowned for its extraordinary healing properties. Arriving in the morning, I first made my way to the fence, where two donkeys stood vigil behind a barricade of barrels—appearing, in my playful interpretation, fully aware of their important duties.
- An immortelle plantation on the Croatian island of Krk is closely guarded by two donkeys, aware of their responsible role, standing behind barrel fortifications.
A man strolling near a free-standing steel hall began signaling me to come closer. His warm welcome was due to the fact that he was expecting visitors just then—guests scheduled for a presentation on the plantation’s history, its products, and a tour. Although my visit was unannounced, I gladly accepted the invitation to join the event, especially since the other attendees were set to arrive in just fifteen minutes.
Once everyone had settled, the host launched into a captivating narrative about the creation of the immortelle plantation, which was no small feat due to the technical and logistical challenges involved. The plant is naturally difficult to cultivate, and the field, as evident in the photo above, has quite a steep slope. Photos of people wrestling with machinery and the land—removing stones and preparing the ground for sowing in various ways—were accompanied by the host’s clear English commentary. These tales inspired admiration for the hard work behind the scenes and sparked curiosity about the Italian strawflower (Helichrysum italicum), the formal name of this remarkable plant. Along the way, I learned not only about its morphology but also about the process of producing the oils and other cosmetic products derived from the immortelle [3].
Then came the time to explore the plantation itself. In October, long after the harvest, the leisurely uphill walk offered a chance to ask questions, take in the view of the fields, and avoid being trampled or nibbled by the very energetic donkeys I had already met at the fence (a charging donkey can, on occasion, resemble a warhorse on the attack). Afterward, the owner invited us to visit a nearby spot next to the field, where a stunning view of the bridge awaited. It was there that I first heard about the Battle of Cape Bejavac, which had unfolded in the area.
- View from the island of Krk: In the center, the arch of the Krk Bridge over the Silent Channel (Croatian: Tihi kanal). On the left, the chimneys of the Rijeka refinery. On the right, the peninsula with the Voc bay, continuing – already outside the photo – into the Bejavac cape. In the background, the Dinaric Alps.
Internet
My online research to confirm the story I had heard—a task I eagerly took on after returning—proved somewhat challenging. This wasn’t so much due to a lack of Polish-language sources (or my inability to find them) but rather the overall scarcity of mentions of this battle on non-Croatian websites. All the more reason for me to appreciate the benefits of automatic translation, which not only conveyed the meaning but also provided valuable insights.
As I read on, the historical context of the conflict became clear: Caesar’s forces were involved, led by:
- Publius Dolabella, commanding the fleet, and
- Gaius Antonius, in charge of ground troops stationed on the island of Krk,
against Pompey’s troops, commanded by:
- Marcus Octavius and
- Lucius Scribonius Libon.
Like Pompey, Caesar himself wasn’t present during this battle. Although he lost this particular engagement, he managed to turn the tide in his favor and win the war the following year.
- Bay Voc from the left and Cape Bejavec from the right as seen from the island of Krk. In the background the Silent Channel (Croatian: Tihi kanal).
The Battle of Cape Bejavac forced Caesar’s besieged troops to make a desperate attempt to evacuate the island using rafts made of barrels. This dramatic episode, mentioned in the epic Pharsalia by Lucan (Marcus Annaeus Lucanus) [4], became the foundation for the first written record about barrels [5].
- A stone on the island of Krk with the inscription “barrel” referring to the history of a land-sea battle that took place in this area in 49 BC.
The Book
When I later recounted my adventure to my Croatian friend, he brought me great joy—not only was he familiar with the topic from his school days, but he also recommended a book in Croatian [6] This work serves as a valuable resource on the socio-military-political climate and the circumstances surrounding the Battle of Cape Bejavac on the island of Krk. The author of the book is also the writer of the master’s thesis mentioned in the footnotes—a scholar who apparently specializes in the historical analysis of the late Roman Republic.
Summary
That day of exploration turned out to be remarkably fruitful. I not only learned about the immortelle plant but also delved into the tale of a battle, after which wounded soldiers may well have treated their injuries with remedies derived from this plant—already renowned across Europe at the time. By evening, back at the hotel, I was immersed in my next captivating subject of interest: Glagolitic script.
The article is a machine translation of the original in Polish.
References
External links:
- [↑] Gnathosaurus on Wikipedia;
- [↑] List of islands of Croatia on Wikipedia;
- [↑] Plantation website: naturaconsulting.hr;
- [↑] Post Omišalj kroz povijest on omisalj.hr municipality Omišalj;
- [↑] Bilić-Dujmušić, Siniša.Ratne operacije u provinciji Iliriku 49.-47. pr. Kr. / Čače, Slobodan (mentor).Zagreb: Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences, Zagreb, 2001;
- [↑] Bilić-Dujmušić, Siniša. BITKA KOD KRKA 49. GODINE PRIJE KRISTA. Rijeka: Hrvatska sveučilišna naklada d.o.o., Filozofski fakultet u Rijeci, Hrvatsko katoličko sveučilište, 2022.
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